Josie Dew is one of my
favorite authors. If you don't know of her, you may suspect, based on my
cycling obsession and my fondness for her books, that she writes about
cycling - self supported cycle touring to be specific. Twenty-some years
ago, she started taking off on long self-supported tours, first with a
boyfriend, and later, once he proved too fragile, solo. She wrote a book
about one of those early tours, and then soon after wrote another and
another. After a while books just kept appearing after some extended
bike tour in some exotic or not so exotic place. Her writing style is
quite humorous and very much to my taste.
The kindness of strangers
is a recurring theme in her books. Maybe because she was a female
touring alone, with an enormous load, including the kitchen sink it
seems, she would often have folks stop and give her things, like food,
and Hello Kitty paraphernalia (that - mostly when when she was
touring in Japan). Now no one has ever stopped us while we were touring
to offer us Hello Kitty socks, or cans of soda, or asked us to
come home and camp in their back garden. I suspect part of the reason
Josie got more attention is that she was a female, traveling alone. And
given the load she was already carrying, what's a little more! Oh and
we've never toured in Japan, so maybe we would get the same treatment
there and need to carry an empty pannier to hold all the gifts!
Sadly, we missed the opportunity, when she happened to be touring in New
Zealand while we were living there, to accost her and offer her
accommodation or silly local keepsakes or cans of soda. I had failed to
keep current on her blog and missed that she was nursing a knee injury
in the central part of the south island during our last months there. I
was saddened to read that she had similar impressions of the lack of
cycle-friendliness that we had. It was a relief to hear of her similar
experiences, but still a bit sad, all the same.
While
we weren't able to host Josie Dew, I did manage during our time in
Nelson to offer a few other bike tourists a place to stay. John used to
accuse me of lurking about the tourist office looking for unsuspecting
bike tourists to bring home. I was at times starved for non-NZ bike
culture, but also just loved having guests. I do miss being in a place
where we regularly encountered touring cyclists.
Dervla Murphy
is another author who has written extensively about cycle-touring and
travel and the kindness of strangers. Years ago, John gave me a copy of Full Tilt: Ireland to India with a Bicycle,
her first book. It was published when I was 4 years old, and was about a
time and place from which I am far removed and that I could only
experience by reading about it. At the time I read the book, I may have
judged her experiences too harshly, in the context of current times, and
frankly a very different world. When I read the book though, I came
away feeling that some of the folks who had taken her in and given her
food, had sacrificed months worth of food in a single seating. There is a
certain degree of politeness that says it is insulting not to accept
offers of kindness, and my own experience with the Irish culture, says
that no matter how politely you try to turn down an offer of tea and
biscuits, eventually you will be forced to accept. Mrs. Doyle, from the
Father Ted TV program, is alive and well, and her spirit lives in many
of John's aunts.
Ah, but what does all this have to do
with our tour in the Cevennes? Right, we are, after all, still blogging
about that trip. We were experiencing an interesting (well I can almost objectively call it interesting after a few weeks of time has elapsed, and with some slight romanticizing of the conditions), yes, an interesting
weather pattern, where every other day, and sometimes multiple times
within a day, the weather would change dramatically. From the photos of
the previous week, you can see days with brilliant blue skies and
sunshine, alternating with days of heavy clouds or dreary grey skies. So
after the brilliant sunshine on our ride through the gorges, we were
due some clouds. The forecast, yes, I still wasted time checking the
forecast, called for clouds and rain, with heavier rain possible later
in the afternoon. Sadly, this prediction proved to be spot on. But
naturally we were optimistic and didn't really believe it when we
started the day. At several points during the day, sucker holes (that
is a bit of blue sky surrounded by clouds which entices you to believe
it might clear, so you ride up another col, only to have it close down
and then pour cold wet stuff on you at the worst possible moment), yes,
sucker holes opened up and enticed us to climb another col, even though
we should know better.
We started the day with clouds,
dramatic, heavy dark grey clouds that provided amazing backdrops for
many photos as we pedaled along the ridge road known as the Corniche des Cevennes. At the top of the first big climb, we found ourselves deep
within one of those clouds, feeling the dampness first hand, and as we
were descending, the water from the clouds followed us down. OK, I'll
say the word. It rained! But shortly after the rain started, it
stopped, and when we reached the proverbial fork in the road, where life
choices, or less dramatically in this case, touring choices, must be
made; we decided to forego the short ride to the large town that would
definitely have food and rooms, and instead headed up a tiny road to the
Col D'Asclier, and aimed for a lovely small hotel in St. Martial, that
we had taken note of the week before on our return journey from Mont
Aiguoal. The climb was along a tiny, almost single lane, road with no
traffic. John, as usual, tried his best to fill the memory card on the
camera. I reached the top first, and put all my warm clothes on for the
descent and wandered around the hiking trails, while taking some photos
of my own. A short while later, John arrived and I showed him all I had
found, including an amazing life like and life size bronze sculpture of a
walker. When I first spied it from a distance I was sure that it was a
walker, but after a while realized he was frozen in time and space.
But
we dallied too long and a rain drop fell, and then another. We realized
we needed to head down quickly. Then we discovered that the folks who
drive the gravel trucks must be following our route planning on
ridewithgps.com. This descent had also been freshly chip-sealed -
although fortunately not as heavily or consistently as the previous
day's chipped descent. A very short ways into the descent, the rain
began to fall heavily. I really can't complain. It was our first
proper rain of the trip. Compared to this rain, all our previous rain
was just mist. This was real rain, and it was from high in the
atmosphere, or at least from some rather cold place!
The next part, you've probably already guessed. We finally reached St. Martial, and found the hotel was ... closed.
We took shelter in a covered area by the public toilet. There was so
much water streaming down my face from the rain, that John can't be
blamed for not realizing some of the water came from tears. I was also
starting to shiver violently. I had on all my warm cycling gear and my
rain jacket. He valiantly offered his winter softshell, as I'd left mine
back at base. It helped, but we still weren't sure what to do. We
pulled out the map to try and determine where the closest larger town
with hotels might be, without having to climb back over the mountain
we'd just descended.
Out of the mist, a small van
pulled up. The other folks sheltering under the cover, ran out and
bought bread from this mobile boulangerie, yes, a traveling baker. John
ran out, and in his best French, asked about nearby hotels. If anyone
would know, it would be a traveling baker. He was from the next town,
and thought there might be something there, but wasn't sure. He then
said that he had a big house and we were welcome to come stay with his
family! He still had to finish his rounds, but would meet us at the bar
in town in an hour, and take us to his house.
We
graciously accepted. The descent continued, so we were still pretty
chilly when we reached the town about 8km away. The bar was ... closed.
Really, what else did we expect? It had at least stopped raining by
that point. We rolled down another block and found a shop and another
bar. A minute or so later, the baker's van pulled up. He offered to put
our bikes in the back, since he lived a couple of km up a hill. We
decided a climb would help us warm back up. The climb did indeed help
warm us. When we arrived, I learned our good Samaritan was named
Vincent, and his wife was Joelle. They showed us a nice room that belonged to one of their children who was no longer living at home.
They let us take showers and get changed, and then invited us in for
dinner.
Vincent offered us home-brewed beer, and it was the best
beer ever. He then showed us his boulangerie and another room where a
brother or sister would stay when they came to visit. This room was
above the bread oven, so partially heated on the days he baked. Over the
next few hours we had beer, bread - of course, butter, ham from a wild
boar they had killed digging up their garden, walnut wine, stew made
from the same wild boar, along with the vegetables from that garden, and
potatoes from that garden, more wine, then cheese, and then some really
strong after dinner drinks. I must say that the wild boar stew was
truly amazing. Don't tell the folks in Florac, but it beat the wild boar
baked in its own stomach by a mile. And it wasn't just hunger makes
good sauce kind of delicious. It was really good. At some point, it
became clear that I was still cold, and they built the
first fire of the season. I did a fair amount of fire worship after
that. Joelle
lent me a couple of sweaters to help with my chill. All the while the
conversation flowed from where we were all from and what we did, to the
silk spinning operation that used to provide the local livelihood, to
the making of the walnut wine, the hunting of wild boars, the language
differences in the various regions of France, the beauty of the
surrounding area, and the vacation spots where they have traveled, the
chorus they sing with, and many other topics that faded in my mind due
to alcohol consumption and the weeks since the dream or reality of this
evening occurred.
The conversation was 95% French.
John's schoolboy French classes served him well. My high school French
has long ago deserted me. I can usually understand what John says when
we tour in France or hang out with our Quebecois friends, since he
speaks slowly and with a somewhat limited vocabulary, usually asking for
rooms or ordering food. But this evening, he said so much more, and I
was surprised how well I could keep up with what he said. Maybe it was
that he used a bit of Franglais, sometimes saying the English word as he
tried to remember the French word or to conjugate a verb correctly.
Vincent and Joelle jumped in to help him with words here and there. I
nodded and smiled. Vincent spoke a bit of English, actually quite a lot,
and it was surprising to learn that he had not taken classes, but
rather had learned his English from Pink Floyd. I dared not admit that I
had learned my French from Lady Marmalade. Of course, as that song was on the pop charts at the time, my high school French teacher had warned us not to use that
phrase to try and get a hotel room in Paris! And it wasn't a phrase I
was likely ever to use in its proper context either. On the other hand I
was quite surprised just how much English Vincent had picked up on the
Dark Side of the Moon. I was embarrassed by my poor language skills and
vowed to do some real studying before we return. Fortunately John
bravely kept up with the conversation, even as the wine flowed freely,
making Vincent even more talkative while John's command of French was
starting to ferment a bit!
As we enjoyed this feast
though I thought back to Dervla Murphy and couldn't help but think that
we might be eating their Christmas dinner, but that it would be impolite
to turn it down.
With all the wine in our systems, we
slept well. After coffee and bread, naturally, we departed to sunny
skies. It was an experience I won't soon forget. The Kindness of
Strangers, indeed.
Another day to get back to base. Stay tuned...
Lovely and thanks for the links! Jim Duncan
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