Derry to Omagh - Ireland 2016

SadiB looked at maps for hours in Derry, trying to decide where we'd go next. I had tossed out the possibility of heading up to Giants Causeway and continuing around in Northern Ireland and then making may way back down the east coast, but as SadiB tried to find quiet ways around Belfast, she just saw way more congestion that I wanted to deal with.

Also I had missed a few interesting spots on the way up, and wanted to hit some of the mountains a little ways inland from the coast, so I decided to head back south and explore a bit more in these areas.

In addition to highlighting the busier roads, making it easy to pick quiet ones, the OSM Cycle maps also color code cycle routes and I'd found their roads to be just my style. 

So SadiB mapped out a route that crisscrossed the Sperrin mountains following a couple of marked cycle routes. The ride proved gorgeous and had plenty of vertical. What it lacked was services, meaning I didn't have lunch til almost 4pm. I quickly realized that when I get away from the touristy areas and the coast, I need to start packing snacks and lunch. 

But I really don't know why this area is not popular with the tourists. The scenery was fabulous.

 

 

Moville to Derry - Ireland 2026

I had arranged to have lunch with a friend in Derry. Derry is a short easy ride from Moville, and I figured I'd have a nice rest day, that is, until she told me I must to the Grianán Ailigh, a very well preserved ringfort. I changed my plans and decided to head a bit more west, taking in another climb before heading for the ringfort.

The forecast had suggested I could pack away my rain jacket, but that quickly proved wrong. The clouds made for lovely dramatic photos at least.

 

 

I've joked a bit about SadiB, my alter ego on ridewithgps. SadiB sits up late at night planning the route for the next day. She finds the tiny white lanes, and seeks those that cross the most closely spaced contour lines. Then I download the route onto my GPS and follow SadiB's route the next day. SadiB and I are quickly becoming less and less friendly. She sends me up brutal climbs. She seems to be able to locate wind farms with ease. These, of course, are located at the tops of steep climbs, and uhhmmm, there's a good reason there are so many wind turbines here!

Buncrana to Moville - Ireland 2016

From my very earliest days with John, I remember hearing stories about the Gap of Mamore. It's like a ski jump, he said. It's so steep, he said. Anytime the subject of hard climbs came up, Gap of Mamore got a mention. So it has long been on the bucket list. But it's way up in Donegal at the north end of Ireland, on the way to Malin Head, the most northerly point. And Donegal is one of the most awkward places to get to from Dublin. It's either a long bike ride, or a train journey, followed by another train journey, followed by a long bike ride, or it's a long bus ride, followed by a long bike ride.

So this year, I made it a goal. I would do a long bike ride and then hopefully be well trained to climb this beast. 

I'd been watching the weather forecasts for several days, trying to time it to have the best weather. Of course, the weather forecasts are painfully inaccurate here, so it really was going to be a crap shoot.

I arrived in Buncrana the night before rather later than I'd hoped. I missed an earlier ferry by mere minutes, and had to wait an hour and a half to get the last ferry across. I found a B&B after a few tries and was warned to not waste time if I wanted dinner, since nearby places were about to close. I didn't have to be told twice. I dumped my bag and ran across the street in my cycling gear.

As I looked at maps trying to decide the best way to go, my waitress noticed and said her husband had cycled it a few times. She checked with him on the best way up and gave me directions.

I'd built it up so much that I barely slept. It was like the night before Mt. Washington!

The next morning dawned bright and sunny, but the breeze was coming from the north. Ah a nice headwind!

I headed out to Dunree and took in the sights there before turning onto the tiny steep road out of town. There are actually several ways to approach the climb, all coming together a mile or so from the top.

 

Gordahork to Buncrana - Ireland 2016

After a couple of days staying in one place, I grew restless. Gap of Mamore was calling. And I needed to head in that direction. The weather looked like it might even cooperate. It would be cloudy for another day and then sunny on the day I planned to climb Mamore. But I'm getting ahead of myself. First I have to get to Buncrana.

I bid my hostesses farewell and aimed the bike east. My first diversion would be a loop around Horn Head. The day started cloudy, but soon the sun was making brief appearances. If the clouds burned off I should get a great view at Horn Head.

 

I may just have to take their word for it, regarding the view

Glenveagh - Ireland 2016

My friend, Jenny, gave me grief for calling the Benbulben ride a rest day. Well she should approve of the way I spent yesterday. I slept late, had a relaxing breakfast, worked on some blogposts, and then took a short spin to visit a friend who moved here recently. The two of us drank coffee and talked for ages. At some point, hunger drove us to take a short spin into the village for lunch. It was so great to see this friend after almost three years and a lifetimes worth of changes to both our lives. While we email and text regularly, there is nothing like a real face to face chat. I love having new places to visit when my friends move away. But I still miss going out for coffee and lunch and bike rides together. So this was a real treat.

Now today, I made up for that rest day. But I have to blame my friend. The route is hers. She promised great views and awesome roads.

 

I'm sure there is a view out there somewhere!

Ardara to Gortahork - Ireland 2016

One of my hopes on this trip was to catch up with a friend who lives in Donegal. I sent her a text saying I thought I would be in the area that night, and she replied saying she'd made arrangements for me to stay with some friends nearby, her place being too small for guests. This was a kind and gracious offer, but it meant I had a long ride and people expecting me.

Naturally SadiB, my alter-ego on ridewithgps, routed me over quite a few climbs nod through a wind farm, with a gate at the far end. As I turned onto the road leading up to the wind turbines, I was actually turning away from an angry barking dog, so I really did not want to turn back. There were no signs indicating private or dead end, but the ... Uhmmm ... Road was a bit rocky. And I got right up next to the turbines. It was very cool, and noisy!

Then I reached the end of the road and found a fence and gate and sign. I figured if they had a sign here, that they'd prefer I climb over the gate, rather than backtrack across the place I wasn't supposed to be. So I got to appreciate exactly how light or heavy my gear is.

Then it was on an up another endless climb down to another gorgeous but empty beach.

The sun came out shortly before I reached my destination for the night, and I quickly realized why my friend has made this her home. It is just gorgeous.

 

Killybegs to Ardara - Ireland 2016

I was so impressed with our brief visit to Donegal in 2014 that I started planning a return trip right away.  Naturally, the first place I had to come back to was the Slieve League Cliffs.

The weather was slightly better than our previous visit, where we huddled behind a sign and then quickly took photos and headed down. This time at least I made it up and back down to the cafe before the torrential downpour. Then I spent well over an hour in Ti Linn with soup and coffee and scones waiting out the rain. I'm okay if it starts while I'm on the road, but there is nothing harder than leaving the warmth of a cafe to head out into the rain!

Then it was on to Glencolumbkille, where my jaw dropped when I rode around the corner to see yet more impressive cliffs. It's the unexpected sights that have been the most impressive.

Although the views descending the Glengesh Pass were as fabulous as I'd remembered! Someday I must climb up it from the Ardara side so I have more time to take in the view!

 

Sligo to Killybegs - Ireland 2016

I spent ages online trying to find accomodation for my next night.i initially thought it should be no problem on a Sunday. I first looked in at the nice hotel in Killybegs where we stayed last time, but they were full. And then nothing else showed as available in Killybegs. Next I looked in Donegal town, again with no luck. A few other searches proved fruitless, until it seems someone's temporary reservation in Killybegs expired and a room popped up there on my search. I quickly reserved it and mapped out a route.

It was to be a long ride, so I wanted an early start, so I didn't lollygag too much at breakfast. Looking back for photos it seems it wasn't the most inspiring of days as I have almost no pictures.

However it is a day that sticks in my memory, thanks to an aggressive little dog, who took a bite out of my leg right in front of his oblivious owner. As I let out a scream, the man asked if I was OK. I said "no your dog just bit me" I had slowed down to check a turn. I was trying to figure out if the road I was planning to take was private or if the sign was for the house. As I was coasting, the dog came around from behind and sunk his teeth in.

I asked if the dog was current on vaccinations and was assured he was. I suppose in retrospect I should have asked to see documentation, but I just wanted to get away. I backtracked a bit, washed out the wound with water, and applied some antibiotic cream.

After a good clean up in the shower, I applied a Compeed-like plaster. This was good for keeping road muck out of the wound, but a week later, when I finally took it off, there was still a good puncture in my calf. It finally started to heal once I left it open. It was a real shock though. John got bit near Mt. Leinster and then me. In all our trips here, this is the only time we've had bad dog encounters. Sadly it has caused me to yell at any dog that tries to herd me along the road!

 

Sligo - Benbulben Circuit - Ireland 2016

A couple of years ago, John and his brother, Dave, and I went on an unsuccessful search of good weather in Ireland in November. We started in Wetport and rode through torrential rain that came down sideways and left us shivering, wet and cold. My weather app suggested heading north. So we loaded bikes into Dave's jeep and headed to Sligo.

The good weather fled when we arrived. Then our first ride had too many photo ops that we didn't cover much distance thanks to too much good light. This is what happens when John carries his good camera. I have to adjust distance goals way down, because he keeps disappearing off the back, stopping to take photos, or has his victims, uh I mean models, ride back and forth past some nice background, until he gets the perfect shot.

Our second ride out of Sligo started the same as the first, and Dave and I realized we'd need to change from our planned 75 miles ride to the 40 mile version that circumnavigated Benbulben To be fair, the light really was nice that day. And the 40 mile route was one of the nicest loops I've ever picked off a map.

Sadly poor Dave suffered more punctures that day than one might normally have in a year. We used every tube the three of us carried, and then patches too.

When I asked for suggestions in the area, John reminded me how nice this loop had been, and suggested doing it in reverse. So a plan was hatched to do a short ride without gear. I called it a rest day, but my friend, Jenny suggested I didn't understand rest.

It was an amazing day. I love the riding around Sligo and this loop really is worth a repeat.

 

Castlebar to Sligo - Ireland 2016

After enjoying the great Western Greenway so much, I was intrigued by the trail out of Castlebar. While it is nice to have a dedicated cycle path, this one had a few very tight turns and a couple of seriously steep sections that would challenge the skills of most of the folks I saw riding along the path. My route to Sligo started out on the path and then picked up a few other regional cycle routes that showed up on the OSM maps. It turned out much of this days route followed the tour de Humbert, a regional circuit marked with signposts.

 

The Castlebar Ents

Keel to Castlebar - Ireland 2016

I woke to mist and fog. I'm so glad that I got out to see Keem the evening before. Always ride out the tailwind. Always take advantage of sunshine!

After blowing the turn a couple of days ago, I spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to get back to Achill and how many times I wanted to do that flat stretch of road between Mulranny and Belmullet. I decided twice was enough, and even though it would mean missing out on the climb to the radar station that Dave had told me about, I opted to head inland and take the road by Nephin to get Windy Gap with Castlebar as my destination for the night.

 

The fog slowly burned off, and I had another great day.

Belmullet to Keel - Ireland 2016

As I mentioned yesterday, I managed to completely miss Achill Island and then hunger and frustration clouded my judgement and I found myself in Belmullet. After texting John and hearing back from almost every member of his family, I knew I'd have to backtrack and take in the Island. I looked at various options and the weather forecast and finally decided to do just that, backtrack and take the turn I'd missed.

Now I don't want to disparage the weather in Ireland, but SUMMER was predicted to arrive and depart the following day. So the best place to be for Summer Day in Ireland would be Achill.

I was up early, applying sunscreen, before turning into the dreaded headwind, going south. The wind turned out not to be as bad as I feared. I made good time down to Ballycroy where I enjoyed a great coffee and scone. The views from here were already amazing. It would only get better.

 

Delphi to Belmullet - Ireland 2016

Wait... Belmullet? How did that happen? Weren't you on your way to Achill Island?

Well yes. I was. But we will get to that...

First, I had to climb over Sheefry Pass into Westport. I've now done this climb three times. We did it twice in 2013 and I remember loving it so much that I did it a third time instead of the coast road. One of these days. I must do the coast road. I'm sure it's gorgeous.

After descending into Westport, I hugged the coast and then picked up the Great Western Greenway. When friends had asked about this bike path recently, my brother in law warned them off, saying it had loads of road crossings, with the cyclist not having priority. Well I'm glad I ignored him. Sure if you are doing a time trial, it might be annoying to have to stop at all the side roads or deal with gates. But for the touring cyclist, it is such a pleasant way to get to Achill, even on a busy sunny day, when loads of families on rental bikes are also making the trek,.

The problem happened when my GPS route left the greenway before the end. I saw a sign up ahead with maps and info so I rolled along further to check it out. When I left the path, my GPS had arrows going to the right, and I followed.

Big hills were off to both sides, so I didn't suspect anything. But then I popped out on a main road and saw a sign that indicated the closest civilization was 7km to the left. My GPS was saying go that way, so I did. But then when I reached the town, another sign said Belmullet was 30 km away. I was hungry and thirsty and went into the shop for food before sitting down to check maps.

I got a new GPS for this trip. John has been using the Wahoo Elemnt for a while and has nothing but praise for it. The big selling point for me was wireless integration with ridewithgps. The wireless feature meant that I could leave the laptop at home and just use my tiny iPad for mapping. The Garmin devices with wireless capability insist one use Garmin Connect. I'd had no luck bringing rwgps routes into Garmin Connect and didn't like their route planning software. So the Wahoo was a big win there. The only problem is the Elemnt is still very new and has some missing features that are really useful when touring, the most critical of which is panning. You can zoom in and out, but you can't pan. It also doesn't cope well with overlap, especially if you get off course.

Now if you aren't driven by hunger, this may not be an issue.

But when I went to read the sign on the greenway, I got on an overlapping section of the route and the device decided I had done the island, so I should go north.

By the time I realized my mistake I was 30 tailwind enhanced kilometers beyond the island. Then I made it worse by letting hunger cloud my judgement and continued to Belmullet.

I sent John a text saying what I'd done. He told me I must go back and that his brothers and sisters agreed. Achill was not to be missed.

The route below is now corrected, so one can't make that mistake!

Stay tuned for Achill tomorrow. 

 

The descent off Sheefry Pass is swoopy and fun.

Clifden to Delphi - Ireland 2016

If I'm going to blow the budget I might as well go for it. The hotel had onsite seaweed baths. I'd heard about these a while back, an advetorial on the airplane or something. The idea is you soak in a really hot tub filled with seaweed. The heat opens the pores and the seaweed does some magic. Whether  seaweed baths can really help with whatever ails you, it is certainly relaxing to soak in a hot bath with low lights and soft music. I enjoyed my bath after breakfast, as my warmup for the ride ahead.

 

Athenry to Clifden - Ireland 2016

John and I have spent extended time apart many times in the past. When his mother first got sick, he got stuck in Ireland for a while because his employer had lost critical paperwork for his work visa. Then when we were in New Zealand, he went back to the US for.a while to keep his residency valid, while I stayed and had our house redone. After my father got sick, I spent lots of time in North Carolina. Then after we moved to Greenfield, I still had to travel back to Cambridge for a few days, every three weeks, for my cancer treatments. So we can survive apart. But the fact that I can list the times we have been apart might suggest that we haven't spent too much time apart. In fact most people know us as that tandem couple. So not just two people together, but two people on the same bike. So let's just say that being apart can feel odd.

Also, Most times we've spent apart, except for the residency trip, have also been marked by illness. So this occasion, at least, will be a pleasant change. This trip to Ireland is my victory lap, if you will. I have recovered and now it's time to put my strong healthy body back to work on having fun!

Until recently, I hadn't had more than a few days in a row without some sort of appointment. But my calendar this summer was free and wide open. While I probably should have said, OK, time to find a job, instead I said, I want to tour around Ireland. Then my brother-in-law conveniently decided to get married in July and gave us a reason o come in the summer. 

Of course someone in the family still has to work.. We still need health insurance afterall. So John could only get away for three weeks. I, on the other hand, didn't have another appointment until late August, so I booked my return for a few days prior to that appointment.

Well today was the start of the solo leg of my tour.